That morning was different, with 50 motorcyclists, their Royal Enfields thumping in chorus, about to chase a dream across the Himalayas.
They were decked up in riding gear and their mission was to reach the world’s highest motorable mountain pass – the 18,350-foot Khardung La in Jammu and Kashmir – during a 15-day trip, covering a distance of 2,500 km as part of the Himalayan Odyssey 2009.
Though everything was perfect – an Innova sedan at my disposal, my luggage comfortably placed in the truck, I was all set to accompany the riders as part of the media – just one worry haunted me. Being the only woman in the group, would I be able to break ice with them?
“No other girl joining you?” asked J.S. Mann, a participant from Delhi. When I replied in the negative, he said, “We all want to give you company and I am sure if you want to learn riding, everyone will come forward to teach you!”
The sojourn began with the flag-off from Delhi on June 13 and we reached Chandigarh amidst sweltering heat. The next day on our way to Manali I was thrilled at the sight of the first snowcapped mountain and a river flowing next to the road. After all, it was just the beginning.
The drive from Manali to Rohtang Pass was an agony for cars because of the never-ending traffic and I was envious of the bikers who could easily negotiate the jams and move ahead to enjoy their first brush with snow on the trip.
As the crowd and road traffic thinned, my encounters with hills, delightful little waterfalls, yellow-beaked crows and big stony mountains began in right earnest. ‘Dhabas’ or makeshift eateries on the roadside at regular intervals became harder and harder to spot; the choice of food came down to steaming bowls of Maggi noodles, glucose biscuits, momos and dal-chawal.
“I am carrying my stock of chocolates and some dry fruits and energy bars,” said Mriganka Sarkar, a participant from Kolkata.
It was during lunch breaks that my interactions with the bikers would take place – I guess they realised they would not get rid of me any time soon. So they surrendered to my constant queries.
One thing I observed was that some bikers took good care of their skin by applying and re-applying sunscreen, borrowing moisturizers, sharing lip balms and last but not the least, discussing the sun protection factor (SPF) of their sunscreens!
With the weather becoming cooler, the clothes too started piling up. When we faced heavy snowfall, on our way to the 16,040-ft Baralacha La pass, there was zero visibility.
I couldn’t resist the snowfall and came out of my car to experience the small, soft, crisp, white fluffs of snow that fell continuously. I wanted to stay outside, but the freezing winds forced me to step back into the car and keep the heater on.
After reaching Sarchu, still in Himachal Pradesh, many bikers complained about mild headaches, loss of appetite and nausea — all signs of altitude sickness. At night, the temperature dipped to minus, resulting in practically no sleep for most of us.
Even as the snowfall relented, the biting cold winds continued. Trees disappeared from sight, giving way to mighty mountains, barren land and never ending silence. I can now understand why people come to the Himalayas for peace and calmness of a kind that free your mind and allow you to contemplate.
Around this time, conversations over dinner became one of my favourite activities, as it was then that the riders discussed their day’s experience, their falls and their life. Light jokes, a little rum, hot food – sometimes accompanied by campfire – made for memories of a lifetime for me.
While I managed to survive altitude sickness, my body gave up on our way to Rumse in Jammu and Kashmir at the Ghata Loops where you pass 21 continuous bends. I succumbed to motion sickness and vomited throughout the day with traces of blood.
It was a miserable night for me and I had decided to quit. But guess who convinced me to stay put? Some of the bikers. I still thank them or else I would have missed the opportunity to see those mighty mountains in whose lap we humans are but a speck.
After enjoying a day of rest in Leh, all of us were ready to conquer Khardung La – the dream destination of every biker. Enthusiasm lingered in the air and the men carefully manoeuvred their bikes. The climb was steep but once they reached the top, triumph shone in their eyes.
“I have nurtured this dream for 13 years. It feels fantastic,” said Vishnu Vardhan Kuna from Bangalore.
Some bikers shed tears of joy while some took off their warm clothes to pose for pictures. Even as our lungs hungrily gulped in mouthfuls of air, we all were celebrating!
Our journey back home – from a different route – was smooth and sunny, despite bad roads. We took a bypass road from Keylong to enter Himachal Pradesh’s famed Spiti Valley, which was beautiful.
Through the trip, not only did I manage to see the majestic Himalayas, I also made a few good friends who I am sure will be there for a lifetime.
rounak